During the southern hemisphere’s summer of 1997 I visited Antarctica. I wasn’t a tourist; I was a ship’s doctor. I wonder now that I had the nerve. If anybody were to fall ill, seriously ill, I would not have the option of referring them to the nearest district hospital. Healthcare-wise, I was it. Fortunately, nobody came a cropper. Most of my patients were suffering from mal de mer. I’m pretty sure one patient, incongruously, had malaria, but she had just come back from a trip to Vietnam, and fortunately she had brought her anti-malarials with her. For myself, prone to motion sickness, I knew there would be nothing worse than trying to manage patients if I myself felt like death. So I dosed myself up with my antihistamine of choice, and was walking on air.
I flew from Auckland across the International Date Line to Buenos Aires, courtesy of Aerolineas Argentinas, thence to the most southerly city in the world, Ushuaia, at the bottom of Terra del Fuego. The crisp air of the Patagonian mountains reminded me of Scotland. In the streets of Ushuaia I was menaced by a vicious looking dog and I wondered if it could be rabid. I had no idea. But I wasn’t bitten.
Down at the dock, there was a billboard looking out to sea, designed after the fashion of a gilded picture frame you sometimes encounter, encapsulating a beautiful view; but the vista was cut out in the shape of the Malvinas, the Falklands. Quark, who organised global adventure tours, had advised me not to advertise my origins. Memories of 1982, of the General Belgrano, of Goose Green, were still very raw. Best say I was a New Zealander, which was true.
The ship was The Professor Multanovskiy, formerly a Russian spy ship. Indeed the ship’s captain and crew were Russian. The passengers were all Belgian, and the lingua franca on board was Flemish. The only English native speaker was the barman, a French Canadian, with whom I played chess. I conducted most of my consultations in schoolboy French.
It was a ten day trip, two and half days spent crossing the Drake Passage, two and a half back, with five days on and around the Antarctic Peninsula. Aside from the penguins and the seals, we largely had the place to ourselves. This was just before the dawn of the age of mass tourism. Now the great and the good, the very rich, go down on their cruise ships, anchor off Deception Island and semaphore to one another, because while they have their gin and tonic, with ice, no lemon, they have run out of Perrier water. But ours wasn’t merely a sightseeing trip. There was a film crew on board, making a documentary about the hundredth anniversary of the discovery of the Gerlache Strait, which separates Brabant Island and Anvers Island from mainland Antarctica, by a Belgian explorer, Gerlache, whose grandson, the Baron, was present.
Of the trip itself I have written elsewhere. There remains in my memory only a collage of impressions. Admiralty Bay, Hanna Point, Telephone Bay, Pendulum Cove, Whaler’s Bay, Melchnikoff Point, Melchior Island… And some of the bases – Arctowski (Polish), Bellingshausen (Russian), Argentinean and Chilean bases whose names I can’t remember, and of course the British Base at Port Lockroy. There was a lot of joshing and banter at Port Lockroy, and I realised after days at sea (in more ways than one) conversing in French, how much I’d missed irony. I think I sent a post card from there. To whom I sent it, or whether it turned up, I can’t say.
We were very lucky with the weather. The seas were calm, aside from the pronounced swell across the Drake Passage, the skies blue. The sun shone and the ambient daytime temperature was about three degrees Celsius. I actually managed one day to sunbathe, after a fashion, on deck, and I made a point of dawning shorts and running vest and going for a run on the Antarctic beach.
But I bring all this up today to provide a backdrop to a very vivid experience I had, which left a lasting impression, towards the end of the return trip to Ushuaia. The good weather held and the ship’s captain made a diversion in order to go round Cape Horn. I remember seeing, on the Chilean coastline, a stone’s throw away, green grass, and experiencing a tremendous sense of relief. I was returning to an environment where I belonged, having been a visitor to a region which was totally inimical. Visiting Antarctica is not that different from visiting the moon. You can’t go there without a substantial backup of life support. The penguins, sociable cobbers, Adelie, Gentoo, Chinstrap, are right at home, but we are only there under sufferance. Antarctica definitely changed my world view. I had thought of the whole of planet Earth as our home, yet in fact our natural habitat is even more circumscribed, within certain latitudes.
Yet we are reliant upon Antarctica. We need it, in its pristine state, for the equilibrium of our ecosystem. This has been recognised in the – somewhat fragile – international agreement that Antarctica should not be mined, should not be exploited. Precisely the same can be said for the northern, polar regions. And yet look at what is now happening up there, and with extraordinary rapidity. President Trump wants to exploit Greenland. If he doesn’t, the Russians or the Chinese will. It is therefore imperative, he says, that he have control of Greenland. He says he doesn’t want Russia as a neighbour. Doesn’t he realise that Russia, fifty one miles across the Bering Strait from Alaska, is already his neighbour? He is already a close ally of Greenland, through NATO, and is welcome to increase his military presence there. But apparently this is not good enough. Complete commitment only comes with complete possession. This is going to happen. We can either do it the easy way, or the hard way. In this blog I’ve previously compared President Trump to Harold Potter, the wheeler dealer in the film It’s a Wonderful Life who changes peaceful Bedford Falls into the grotesque, dystopian Pottersville; and to Shelley’s Ozymandias, he of “wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command”, the haughty and disdainful king who eventually is rendered extinct in a barren wasteland. Yesterday I heard somebody compare the President, appropriately enough in this season of Epiphany, to King Herod. Such is his paranoia.
The irony is that all this rapacity, this compulsion to extract every last fossil fuel, mineral, and rare earth from the earth’s crust, is being unleashed at the same time that the Arctic ice is melting and the Northwest Passage is opening up. That which looks like a business opportunity is actually the intimation of a dire threat. President Trump might well be advised to leave 57,000 Greenlanders alone. They are looking after their island very well, as their ancestors have done for thousands of years. But no. President Trump is going to “double down”. It’s all there in his National Security Policy:
We reject the disastrous “climate change” and “Net Zero” ideologies that have so greatly harmed Europe, threaten the United States, and subsidise our adversaries.
We can’t say we weren’t warned. In this 250th anniversary of the founding of the United States, we may ask, what does President Trump stand for? For the past eighty years we have thought of the US as the house on the hill, a beacon of light. But there is no reference in the National` Security Strategy to whatsoever things are good, whatsoever things are true. President Trump stands for national aggrandisement, and the accumulation of wealth. He says so, quite explicitly, and proudly. Last week, almost unnoticed, he pulled out of 66 institutions of international cooperation, some UN, for example, the Peacebuilding Commission, and the Peacebuilding Fund, some non-UN, for example, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. He has little interest in the United Nations, or NATO, or the World Health Organisation, or the Conference of the Parties. He is only interested in cooperation with allies if it will swell the Federal Reserve, whose interest rates had better be controlled by him. When the USAF used RAF Mildenhall, and then Wick John O’Groats Airport, en route to commandeering an oil tanker between Iceland and Scotland, I couldn’t help recalling that, once more, Orwell saw it all coming. Britain was a satellite of the US, renamed “Airstrip One”. Now imagine threatening to attack an ally of 57,000 peace-loving people. You could hardly conceive of a victim who posed less of a threat.
He needs to be told. He is quite explicitly, after all, threatening to destroy the planet. He needs to be confronted with the truth. It won’t be pretty. He won’t like it. He could make things very unpleasant for us all. But sometimes you have to rise to a challenge, because the alternative is so unthinkable. As Ernest Shackleton once said, we all have our Deep South.
