Having reason to travel to Skye for three days last week, I went on line to check there was an adequate electric vehicle infrastructure at my destination. All was, apparently, in order, and I set off. I haven’t been up since 2018, when I attended my cousin’s funeral in Portree. I’d heard the place was greatly changed. It has certainly become exorbitantly expensive. A hotel I used to frequent is now charging £750 a night. I would gladly pay £750 for a week’s accommodation, but not for a night. I opted for a modest establishment in Broadford.
I had various reasons to travel. I wanted to lay aside the tome I’ve just written, for at least a few days, have a change of scene, and do something completely different. Then I might reread it with fresh eyes. And there were some people, as John Buchan would put it, I badly wanted to see. Also, it would be nice to escape the doom scrolling that has recently defined the news. At this I didn’t entirely succeed. “Mandelgate” dominates everything. The usual questions: who knew what, and when? I have a notion that if I sat and listened to the news from dawn till dusk I would never find out. I wonder if the Civil Service, or the Foreign Office, told Mandelson himself that he had failed the vetting process. Perhaps they told him he had failed, but not why. That would truly be Kafkaesque.
It rained throughout my trip. I didn’t really mind. On the way up, Glencoe was extraordinarily atmospheric. Up at Loch Alsh, I noticed they’d closed and fenced off Eilan Donan Castle, where the carpark was chock-a-block with trailers. Clearly, they are filming. I drove up to Skye on a single electric charge.
Conveniently, there was a charge point a stone’s throw from my hotel. But I discovered that ChargePlace Scotland no longer covered Skye; indeed they no longer had a presence throughout the entire Gàidhealtachd, having been taken over by another company. Said company indicated you could fire the charger up with a credit card. But it didn’t work. I phoned them up.
“We see you’re at the airport.”
Airport? Not unless they count the disused strip at Lower Breakish. I said I was in Broadford.
“Oh, Broadford. That machine’s not working.” I asked if they had another one nearby. In Dunvegan, apparently. But I didn’t have enough charge left to get to Dunvegan. How about Kyle?
“Where’s Kyle?”
“Kyle of Lochalsh.”
“Can you spell it?”
I drove back over the bridge to Kyle but had no success there either. Back to Broadford. It turned out the machine at Broadford was working perfectly well, but the person who was just unplugging her car advised me I’d need to download the App. I grit my teeth and set about downloading the App.
Then my mobile phone went berserk and I got an urgent text from my bank. Apparently I was being scammed and they were blocking my credit card. Please phone the bank’s fraud squad.
Which I did.
I was offered an option. Did I wish to listen to music while I waited, or silence, occasionally interspersed with a tone to let me know I was still on the line? I went with the tone. Bad idea. The tone turned out to be the doom-fraught chime of the clock in Edgar Allan Poe’s Masque of the Red Death.
DUNG!
Nor did it punctuate silence, but rather a series of dire warnings about the increasingly sophisticated operations of cyber criminals.
Your bank will never ask you for your PIN number. Anybody who asks for your PIN number is a criminal.
DUNG!
If there is anything unusual about this message, hang up immediately.
Well…
DUNG!
I decided to sleep on it, and hung up.
Next morning bright and early, and fortified by a hearty breakfast, I phoned up the charge company and, using my debit card, credit card being now kaputt, trawled through the endless menus and finally set myself up with the App. It worked. I charged up, and drove to Portree, thence to Dunvegan, visiting cousins. Then I took the Dunvegan – Sligachan road back towards Broadford, pausing at the Sligachan Hotel, at dusk, to make a phone call, looking out at the Cuillin Ridge which, despite the dreich weather, was clear of cloud. It’s an overused word, but the Cuillin Ridge really is awesome.
I had no further charging issues throughout my stay. As they say of all things digital, they are great when they work.
Skye has changed. Not, of course, geologically. The escarpments of Trotternish are exactly as they have always been, but they are why Skye has changed. They have been rendered famous on film, and sightseers flock by in droves to take a look. Consequently, there has been a hike in prices. Skye has been turned into a theme park. Back in Portree on Friday, I took a walk past my £750 a night hotel, and saw within, matrons at breakfast with their obese husbands, devouring the Full Scottish without removing their baseball caps. I left them to it and went over to Camustianavaig, where I used to stay when I worked in Skye, and climbed Ben Ianavaig. My cousin’s old croft looked just the same.
But there is another sense in which Skye has not changed. I sensed it as I visited cousins who in turn were constantly being visited by neighbours dropping by. I sensed it in the shops in Portree. The Skye folk are just the same, welcoming, courteous, slightly reserved, getting on with their lives. I have a sense they are waiting, quietly waiting for the film crews to move out, for the hysterical enthusiasm for the Fairy Pools to burn itself out, for the silly prices to subside, and for life to get back on to an even keel.
I thought of coming home via Sleat, taking the Armadale ferry to Mallaig. But the ferry is off, being replaced by an open boat that accommodates four vehicles. And all the crossings were booked up. Ferry palaver, a tale with origins as inscrutable as Mandelgate. But that’s another a story.
